Growing Garlic in Alaska

 

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Some hardnecks that have done particularly well in Alaska include Music, German White, Siberian, Chesnok Red, German Red, Russian Giant, Purple Glazer and Khabar. Of 38 cultivars tested in Illinois, Music outperformed other cultivars for weight in five years of replicated trials. Although these trials may provide some useful comparative data, garlic often exhibits different traits in different climates. It’s best to try a few hardneck or weakly-bolting subtypes and ask other gardeners in your region which cultivars they have found to be hardy.

Table 1. A snapshot of garlic classifications based approximately on Ron Engeland's scheme
Hardneck
Subtype	Some Cultivars	Notes
Purple Stripe	Chesnok Red, Persian Star, Red Grain, Brown Tempest	Recommended for Alaska. Moderately sized plants 3- 5 feet tall with scape uncurled. Scape forms a partial coil or a downwards U before straightening out. Clove skins are brownish and more difficult to peel than Rocamboles. Bulbs store for 5-7 months. One pound of garlic is about 60 large cloves.
Glazed Purple Stripe	Purple Glazer, Red Rezan	Recommended for Alaska. Similar to Purple Stripe except clove color is more intensely purple; fewer cloves per bulb. One pound of garlic is about 60 large cloves. Scape tends to form a full coil before straightening out.
Marbled Purple Stripe	Siberian, Brown Tempest, Krasnodar Red	Highly recommended for Alaska. Scapes are weak in some strains and form random coils. A typical bulb has 4 to 7 cloves. One pound of garlic is about 50 very large cloves. Very vigorous in cold climates.
Porcelain	Romanian Red, Georgian Crystal, Music, Polish Hardneck, Zemo, Georgian Fire, Northern White, German White, Krasnodar White. (Note: Genetic research shows many Porcelain garlics are identical.)	Highly recommended for Alaska. Large and vigorous plants 4-6 feet tall with scape uncurled. Scape is loose with random coils. Bulbs are large, with 4-6 cloves. Clove skins are smooth and white. Difficult to peel. Bulbs store for about 5-7 months. Very vigorous in cold climates. One pound of garlic is about 35 very large cloves.
Weakly-Bolting
Subtype	Some Cultivars	Notes
Asiatic (may be a sub-group of Artichoke variety)	Asian Tempest, Japanese, Korean Mountain, Pyong Vang	Short plants, 3 feet tall when the scape is mature. Flower stalks form under cold conditions. Scapes do not curl and may droop with a long bulbil capsule. One pound is about 50 medium cloves. Double cloves occur. Cloves are brownish, with bulb colors from white to pink to purple striped. Clove skins are tight and difficult to peel. Some grow well in cold climates. Cloves split if harvested too late. Bulbs store for 5-7 months.
Turban (may be a sub-group of Artichoke variety)	Chengdu, Basque, Red Janice, Blossom, Xian, Tzan, Chinese Stripe	Some grow well in Alaska. Related to softnecks but forms a flower stalk under northern conditions. Scapes are weak and tend to form a downwards U. One pound of bulbs is about 60 cloves of variable size. Cloves are brownish; bulb color is usually dark purple striped. Clove skins are loose, easy to peel. Stores 3-5 months. Matures 1-3 weeks earlier than other types.
Creole (may be a sub-group of Silverskin variety)	Ajo Rojo, Burgundy, Creole Red	Not recommended for Alaska. Considered a softneck but may form a flower stalk under northern conditions. Best suited to warm climates and mild winters. Sweeter taste and dark purple clove skins, which are difficult to peel. Bulbs store 6-8 months.
Softneck
Subtype	Some Cultivars	Notes
Artichoke	Inchellium Red, California Early, Susanville, California Late, Early Red Italian, Machashi, Red Toch	Not usually recommended for Alaska. May bolt after cold winters, with bulbils forming just above the bulb, making the bulb unmarketable. Bulb color is whitish to purple blush. Bulbs contain 12-20 cloves. One pound is about 80 small cloves. Cloves are difficult to peel. Bulbs store for 6-9 months.
Silverskin	Silver White, Nootka Rose, Mild French, S&H Silver, Idaho Silver	Not usually recommended for Alaska. A true softneck, with rare flower stalks; best for braiding. One pound is about 90 small cloves. Best for warm climates and mild winters. Bulb size is small (less than 2 inches in diameter). Because of their weak necks, plants lay down (lodge) 1 week before harvest. Peeling is difficult. Bulbs store up to 1 year.
Note. Elephant garlic is not true garlic, but a type of leek, Allium ampeloprasum.

Garlic does not compete well, so keep it well weeded. Use care around shallow roots when cultivating. During the prime growth stages, keep soil moist, but reduce watering as the season progresses to avoid bulb rot. Garlic develops best in a wet spring  and drier summer. A protective structure may be beneficial in particularly rainy climates.

Symptoms of some of the more severe rot and soil-borne diseases of garlic include premature yellow leaves and tip burn as well as stunted and rotting bulbs.

A significant pest of garlic in most of the U.S. and Canada is the garlic bloat nematode (Ditylenchus dipsaci), which has caused major crop losses. Bulb mites are also a pest of concern for garlic. Symptoms of both of these pests include stunted growth, yellow or wilting leaves and root destruction. Lab analysis of infested specimens may be necessary because of the microscopic nature of most pests. It is important to destroy any infested plants. Please report your garlic pests and diseases for identification to the University of Alaska Fairbanks Cooperative Extension Service Integrated Pest Management program.

After harvesting garlic, it is time to cure it. Experts differ on recommendations about root and stalk pruning prior to curing. Some experts believe that roots left on will wick moisture up into the bulb, encouraging rot. Whether or not you trim the roots and stalks, it’s best to hang the garlic in a dry, well-ventilated area. Allow the bulbs to dry for a few weeks to improve storage ability (you can use 

fresh garlic at any time — drying is simply a step to avoid mold and rot in the stored crop). Use a fan in the curing space if necessary. If you live in a humid area, curing may take longer and you may need to add low heat to assist the drying process. After it’s cured, your garlic is ready for storage or to plant again for next season.

Before storing, clean any remaining soil off bulbs gently with a soft bristle brush, preserving as many layers of the papery skin as possible. Store in netted bags (onion bags) for optimal air circulation. Ideal storage conditions are 45-55°F at about 60% relative humidity to deter both rot and dehydration. Garlic stored below 40°F, or in the refrigerator, will sprout. Garlic grown in Alaska usually has fewer bulb wrappers (leaves), so it may not store as long as garlic grown in a warmer climate.

• The entire garlic plant is edible, raw or cooked, in all stages; relish it any time from the garden.
• Cut scapes when they begin to curl. They become woody when the bulbils/blossoms begin to form.
• To peel garlic, first cut the basal part of the clove off and hit with a knife to loosen the wrapper.
• One fresh garlic clove is equal to about 1 teaspoon garlic powder (but not garlic salt!).
• Cutting or crushing garlic 10-15 minutes before using in a recipe helps develop its healthy organosulfide compounds and retain them more effectively when cooked.
• The more a clove is cut or crushed, the more powerful the flavor will be. Crushing with a pinch of salt can moderate the strength.
• To avoid burning garlic (which tastes unpleasantly bitter) when frying, add the garlic near the end of the process and remove garlic bits from food that will be grilled on an open flame.
• When garlic turns blue-green, it has reacted with an acid in the recipe but is safe to eat.
• To get rid of garlic breath, eat fresh parsley or drink milk. Garlic smell on your hands? Rub them on your stainless steel kitchen faucet and rinse well.
• Garlic can be frozen, tightly wrapped/contained (1) as individual unpeeled cloves, (2) as a block to be grated from (first dice the garlic) or (3) as one part garlic to two parts oil pureed together (soft enough when frozen to scrape amounts off for cooking).
• If you want to make garlic infused oil, be aware that you’re providing an ideal environment for Clostridium botulinum, the bacteria that causes botulism, to grow. If you make it, refrigerate immediately and store for less than three days. If kept at room temperature for more than 2 hours, then discard.