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Technical Climbing

Instructor &Contact Info
Not available yet.

Appropriate Student Background
There are no prerequisites for this course; however, students should be in sufficient physical condition to undertake a rigorous program that includes hiking, high angle ice and rock climbing, and days of up to ten hours in length. (Previous climbing experience is desirable.)

Course Description
This course introduces students to high-angle technical climbing. The course is designed to equip aspiring climbers with the necessary skills to accomplish technical top-rope rock and ice climbs. Course content includes movement on rock and ice, rope work, anchor systems, self-rescue, and climbing ethics. The UAF climbing gym (at the SRC) and local climbing areas will be used for instructional sessions. (Students will be encouraged to climb at a level that is enjoyable for them.)

Course Meetings/Classroom
Tuesday 7:00pm-9:00pm 3/22 (Bunnell 124), 3/29 (Bunnell 124), 4/5 (SRC), 4/12 (SRC), 4/19 (SRC), 4/26 (Bunnell 124)

Field Trips
  • Saturday 9:00am-6:00pm 3/26(Dragon Fly), 4/2(Dragon Fly), 4/16(Grapefruit rock-upper),
  • 4/23 (Grapefruit rock-lower)

*Students may have two absences ( one class/SRC session and one field session) and still pass the course. Students may appeal to the instructor regarding further absences. Due to the sequential nature of this course the instructor reserves the right to deny a student from participating in a field component if they missed a foundational class session (this may affect a students ability to pass the course.)

Grading
This is a pass/fail class with no letter grade given. Do to the small number of classes and the experiential nature of the field components, student attendance and participation will be the primary means of passing this course. Students will be expected to be actively engaged in all aspects the course curriculum. (Instructor initiated withdraw deadline is 4/08/05.) To successfully pass this course students will be expected show competence in: Belaying, anchor-chain analyses, rope handling, climbing technique, and site management.

Course Material
Students will have the opportunity to purchase the course material at a reduced price from Outdoor Adventures.

Course Readings (To be completed before date indicated)

  • Mountaineering- The Freedom of the Hills (7 th Ed)
    • 3/26: Ch. 9, 10, 18(p. 390-399 & 417-424), 19
    • 4/6: Ch. 12
    • 4/13: Ch. 13
    • 4/16: Ch. 11
    • 4/20: Ch. 14
  • Instructional readings packet
  • (Instructor will provide information on where to purchase the reading materials at first night of class)

    *Suggested readings & videos will be available for in-house review at the Rasmuson Library.

    LEARNING OUTCOMES
    Theoretical aspects of this course are: belay chain analysis, forces generated in a lead fall.

    Technical
    The bulk of this class deals with the technical aspect of high-angle ice and rock climbing. Attention will be given to efficient movement, belaying and rappelling, anchor systems, intermediate anchor placement on “mock” lead, intro to self-rescue, and rope management skills.

    Student Teaching
    Teaching is not a focus of this course, however, it is an excellent opportunity for advanced students to take on meaningful and fulfilling teaching assistantships.

    Judgement
    Because climbing is a major part of this class, students will be in situations where solid judgement and decision-making skills are important. Not only will they be called on to make decisions pertaining to their own well-being and immediate safety, but ones that will also directly affect their partners. Issues such as the protectability of particular stretches of ice and rock, potential environmental hazards, weather assessment, and assessment of their own abilities and those of their partners will be stressed throughout the course.

    Interpersonal and Group Skills
    Periodic debriefing is a useful tool for the instructional staff to stay abreast of group and individual progress, however, interpersonal and group skills will not be addressed in any formal way.

    Foundational Content
    The majority of this course is aimed at enabling students to become proficient enough with technical climbing skills to further pursue the sport on their own. (Not all students who successfully complete this course will be ready to climb unsupervised)

    Optional Pertinent Material

  • Advanced anchor systems
  • Self-rescue
  • Aid climbing
  • Geology (rock types and their formation)
  • Access issues
  • Ethics
  • Weather hazards
  • Required Teaching Progressions
    The instructor will analyze each student’s developmental needs as they relate to climbing progression and technical skills. Appropriate “assignments” will then be given to each student.

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